Small white or slightly yellowish flowers with a pleasant delicate aroma appear by mid-June. In indoor conditions, this process lasts several months. Insects or wind pollinate the olive, but if the weather is calm, the branches are shaken daily. With self-pollination, the fruits are tied in different sizes, and cross-pollination improves both the quality of the fruits and the yield. At room olive gives about 2 kg of olives, and in the garden - up to 20 kg.
© Günter König
The olive tree is very drought tolerant, but if there is no growth of branches, this is a clear sign of a lack of moisture. In addition, the plant is photophilous (with a lack of light, branches begin to become bare), does not tolerate boggy and acidic soils. Liming significantly increases productivity.
Olive can be propagated by cuttings, grafting or seeds. Before planting, the seeds are kept for 16-18 hours in a 10% alkali solution (caustic soda), then rinsed and cut with a "nose" bone secateurs. Planted to a depth of 2-3 cm. Sprouts appear after 2-3 months.
When olive is propagated by grafting, the budding of a wild bird is made by a sprouting eye (it is also possible to cut it) into a split or butt under the bark. The first olives can be tasted in 8-10 years.
For cuttings, take 2-4-year-old trimmed branches with a diameter of 3-4 cm, cover the sections with garden varieties and bury them horizontally in March to a depth of ten cm in March. Since there are many sleeping buds on these cuttings, shoots appear within a month. Cuttings, before planting, cultivate a growth stimulator. In the future, they try to maintain the most favorable regime: a temperature of 20-25 degrees, sufficient lighting, but without direct sunlight. To maintain high humidity, the box with cuttings is covered with glass or film. Spray (do not water!) At room temperature once a day. Such cuttings are transplanted after 2-4 months. They begin to bear fruit in the 2-3rd year.
© Sten Porse
The best time to plant in regions with mild winters is autumn. By spring, the plants take root and grow. When feeding a tree with manure (especially mullein), I must add 200 g of superphosphate so that the soil does not oxidize. In spring, the soil is lime.
The main crop is formed on the growth of the past year, so when pruning I delete only old and unproductive branches. It is better to do this in March, before the sap flow begins. I give the tree a goblet shape - this greatly increases the yield. At room conditions, I limit the height of the tree to 60-80 cm.
© Nevit Dilmen